Oxfords are the most formal, timeless and versatile shoe in the leather shoe category. Based on the fact that there is not much complete introduction to Oxford shoes in the market, I have been trying to slowly sort out some data of Oxford shoes to increase the knowledge of Oxford shoes. Recently, because of several customers’ inquiries about Oxford shoes, we also want to sort out some information this time and share with you what you should know about Oxford shoes.
Oxford Shoes are not carved shoes
Regarding Oxford shoes, everyone must have remembered a line in the movie “Kingsman” a while ago: “Oxfords not Brouges”, which suddenly became popular, making people wonder what Oxford shoes are?
In fact, one of the biggest features of Oxford shoes is the Enclosed Lacing, which is that the side wings extend forward to become part of the upper, and when tied with laces, the wings will fit into a single piece of upper, which is used to distinguish it from the Derby Shoes (that is, the wings are on the upper of the shoe, not the same piece of leather), and Oxford shoes are called Balmorals in the United States. Therefore, Oxford shoes are the names of the four major shoe types for gentlemen, and it is not based on whether there are carved brogues on them as a difference, which is the most confusing thing for ordinary people.
▲ Open placket – Derby shoes vs closed placket – Oxfords
▲Characteristics of Oxford shoes: Enclosed Lacing / lace design 5 to 6 pairs of lace holes / formal and elegant / more classical tradition
Oxford shoes started out as the uniform shoes of the University of Oxford
Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland in the 17th century, and were usually worn to school, often worn by more cultured or special upper classes. In the early 1640s, Oxford University began to introduce oxfords as part of student uniforms, which became known as oxfords. Oxfords were not common in the United States at first, and they didn’t appear until the 19th century, but many redesigns have been made in the middle.
Oxford shoes come in many styles, the more formal ones are mostly black or brown, and the surface can be simple and plain, and some will have decorative holes (engraving), Brogue’s W-wing pattern (called wingtips in the United States), or decorative trim strips on the toe, and the leather is made of suede, cowhide, synthetic leather, etc., and the noble sole will be made of leather, and the heel will be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0.64 to 1.27 cm).
In the early days, oxfords were considered to be very formal and difficult to move around, but today they are comfortable to walk on the road. Oxfords are one of the many shoe choices for business people because of their classic and elegant gentlemanly style, and are very popular in some semi-formal or formal occasions, and more formal are worn with a tie or three-piece suit.
▲The uniform shoes worn by the students of Oxford University at that time
Oxford shoes also have different names depending on the upper decoration
▌Plain–toe basic plain oxford shoes
(called Balmoral in the UK); The basic model of Oxford shoes, there is no decorative design on the upper, the lines are simple and formal, and it can show the graceful arc of Oxford shoes, but it is also a bit monotonous, and on this basis, different popular styles such as stitching, lines, and carvings have been developed.
▌Cap–toe cross-embellished oxford shoes
A piece of leather is attached to the head of the shoe (toe position), and it becomes a horizontal decoration with simple stitching, which looks like wearing a hat, and it is a simple style with a light design, and it is still quite appropriate in formal occasions because it is not too fancy.
▲Cap–Toe Oxford Shoes │ Quarter Brogue 1/4 Engraved Oxford Shoes
▌Saddle saddle oxfords
A piece of leather is sewn from both sides of the wing to the sides, draped over the sides of the shoe like a saddle, at first the leather is used as waste, and later it becomes a two-tone two-material variation, and a similar design is often seen on golf shoes, such oxford shoes are called saddle shoes.
▌ Brogues engraved wing-print oxford shoes
Depending on the number of holes and the area of division, they are divided into Full Brogues (most famously the Wing-Tip), Half Brogues and even Quarter-Brogue. Originally designed for outdoor ventilation, the carved pores have now become an element of the design of Oxford shoes, with a varying number of round holes in the upper, toe cap, and so on. One of the most popular Brogues styles, the Wing-Tip is a W-shaped wing pattern that transforms the front of the silhouette into a W-shaped wing, like a bird’s flight stretch, and adds a lot of decorative holes (not necessarily perforated, sometimes just a hole) for a highly designed, carved design.
▲3/4 carved wing pattern oxford shoes
▌Others
The above division is only a general classification according to different decorative design methods, mainly to add or subtract these elements to change with the basic plain surface, and various categories can also be freely matched and arranged, and the shape is constructed in a kaleidoscopic Oxford shoe college style.
▲Premium series saddle oxfords
Click here to see more types of Oxford shoes
[Further Reading]
Types and classifications of Derby shoes – in addition to Oxfords, you must know about them
Lin Guo Leather Shoes Purchase Guide: For novices who buy Lin Guo for the first time
Lin Guo leather shoes classroom – leather chapter
Text Finishing / Gary Kao
Source / Wikipedia / schuh-lexikon.de
